The Independent Wine Monthly

wine reviews and forthright opinion

Author: IWM

Neudorf : New Releases

2018 Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson
2018 Neudorf Rosie’s Block Chardonnay, Nelson


There is no escaping the fact that most NZ Sauvignon Blanc is made, and tastes, the same way. Varying degrees of concentration maybe but for the most part it is strongly varietal, with plenty of upfront fruit, fairly high acidity and a squeaky clean character. Although it is popular to ridicule sauvignon and the people who drink it, this very sameness is its greatest strength.
So how do winemakers make sauvignon blanc more interesting? Some go down the reduction/gun flint path making wines with strong grapefruit peel notes, often with neutral barrel maturation and a touch of lees stirring. This can add interest and make wines that are impressive but sometimes have such a overt character they are quite hard to drink.

It was therefore interesting to taste the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc ($25.00), a wine that manages the straddle the line between retaining a good degree of drinkability and yet having enough interest to appease those looking for something ‘extra’. 100% wild yeast and with a percentage fermented in old oak it has a subtle graceful character. It shows the 2018 vintage nicely; a lighter, prettier style of wine with a strong wet stone. A nice degree of complexity without . The fruit is sourced from the Marama vineyard, off 13 year old vines so maybe a little bit of vine age has created that extra something?

The 2018 Rosie’s Block Chardonnay ($33.00) is very much in the same vein with subtlety and restraint to the fore. Although the name implies a single vineyard wine, the fruit was sourced from several sites and is a blend of different clones (Mendoza, 15, 85, 8021 and 548). The aromas are of just-ripe white nectarine, honeydew melon and red apple with a strong wet-stone, oyster shell note too. The wine has texture with a small amount of oak and some lees stirring adding an extra degree of complexity. An understated but very appealing style of chardonnay that has a strong ‘drink-me-now’ quality.

Element Wines

2016 Gimblett Gravels Syrah, Hawke’s Bay
2016 Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Hawke’s Bay

Element Wines is a (relatively) new venture from Dominic and Rachelle Smith. The main focus is on red wines and the latest two releases are both interesting to drink and well-priced. A producer to keep an eye on. 2016 Syrah ($30.00) shows more than a passing nod to the wines of the Northern Rhone with its lovely aroma of raspberry, plum and red cherries interwoven with lots of ground black pepper and violets. This creates a perfumed rather than powerful character which is very attractive. The palate is medium bodied with a vibrant fruit character, some supple tannins in support and a moderately lengthy finish. With only 12.5% alcohol this is not a blockbuster style of Gravels syrah but instead a strongly appealing delicious wine; not one to cellar away but to enjoy over the next couple of years. In contrast the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot ($30.00) is a denser, meatier wine that shows blackcurrant and dark plum with red liquorice, black olive and a little graphite. French oak has given some cedar spiciness and whilst there are some tannins it is ripe and fairly subtle. Again, not a wine for the long haul but over the next 2-4 years it should provide charming drinking.

Jenny Dobson Wines

2017 Fiano, Hawke’s Bay

Jenny Dobson is one of New Zealand’s most experienced red winemakers and to date her focus has been firmly on the classic French varieties that seem to do so well in Hawke’s Bay. It is therefore interesting to see her look further afield for inspiration and explore an Italian variety.
Sourced from New Zealand’s oldest plantings of Fiano, the 2017 Jenny Dobson Fiano ($35.00) is a restrained, chalky wine with a strongly appealing lemon rind, chamomile flower and wet stone aroma. Bone dry with a mouth-watering line of acidity it has plenty of concentration and length. An unusual yet appealing wine that would suit those looking for a drier, less ‘fruity’ white wine.

Novum Wines

2016 Chardonnay, Marlborough
2016 Pinot Noir, Marlborough
2016 Syrah, Marlborough

Novum is the new venture from William Hoare (who sold his interest in Marlborough Fromm Vineyard last year), and his wife, Rachel Jackson-Hoare. Hoare has an ebullient, witty personality which belies a very serious love of wine. A very impressive set of wines. Sourced from Will’s parents’ vineyard, the 2016 Novum Wines Chardonnay ($40.00) is 100% wild ferment Mendoza fruit. Lovely, expressive nose with fruit sitting firmly in the citrus spectrum but with some delicate white peach, lemon curd and white flowers too. There is a touch of gunflinty reduction which gives a smoky edge but this doesn’t overpower, instead adding interest. Some new oak adds a lovely digestive biscuit, sizzled butter note. The palate is at once both taut and focussed (more of the citrus notes) but also has a touch of fleshiness and weight that gives rather a come hither quality, a fresh line of acid tying it all together. The 2016 Novum Wines Pinot Noir ($40.00) is sourced from four parcels in the Southern Valleys. Bucking the whole bunch trend, this is 100% destemmed, though not showing any lack of aromatics, structure or finesse for this choice. Plenty of pure red fruits, especially strawberry, on the nose and a lovely savoury, textural palate. Nice lick of spice on the finish, rich and ripe but balanced and pleasingly dry on the finish. From a mass section vineyard in the Brancott Valley, with 4% viognier and just 12.5% alcohol, the 2016 Novum Wines Syrah ($40.00) is a vibrant, expressively varietal wine with violets, crushed red berry fruit, damson plum and peppery spice. Silky texture, touch of fine oak, it’s deliciously fresh and offers great drinking now, though should look even better in a couple more years. With the current tiny production, this wine is already sold out so that’s probably a moot point now alas.

Mahi Wines : New Releases

2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough
2017 Chardonnay, Marlborough

Mahi’s owner and winemaker Brian Bicknell is a thoughtful producer whose wines may not be the most exuberant but rarely disappoint. The 2018 Mahi Sauvignon Blanc ($22.00) was quite shy at first with a touch of struck match reduction sitting alongside some subtle bran biscuit and flinty aromas. The wine seemed quite buttoned down but with a little time in the glass it opened up beautifully with a precise pure red capsicum and snowpea character. Unmistakeably sauvignon but with nuance and detail that made it a really interesting glass. The 2017 Mahi Chardonnay ($29.00) is lovely too; some just-ripe stone fruit, a little grapefruit, a silky texture with some sizzled butter, a touch of reduction, subtle oak and a pleasingly dry finish. This is a wine with a great deal of appeal in an unforced way.

IWM issue 2 February 2019

IWM issue 1 January 2019