2009 Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

By | 28/10/2010

Montana Marlborough Sauvignon BlancIt seems fashionable to sneer at Marlborough sauvignon blanc (and curiously, this is usually done by pinot gris drinkers); certainly the region is struggling with the issues of managing supply with demand and preserving the integrity of its name.  But it cannot be denied that without the region and variety, New Zealand would not enjoy the status in the world of wine that it does today. It is the very thing that allows the niche/boutique players (and retired orthodontists/company directors) the platform for their own wares.

When all is said and done, even at the lower priced, higher volume end of things, there are some damn fine wines to be found. I was pleased to see a smart wooden box awaiting me on the hall table just the other day but rather more surprised to see it contained a humble bottle of the new label 2009 Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: sure to be discounted at a supermarket near you soon.  And if you see it by crikey, snap it up; for it is delicious. Fresh as a daisy, lots of ripe gooseberry, fresh mown hay, red capsicum and passionfruit with surprising depth and texture, this is a fine example of the style.

Undoubtedly there are more complex, and likely longer-lived, wines from the tiny volume, terroir-focused labels dotting the Wairau, Awatere et al, but it is hard not to be impressed by the way in which Montana can churn out what must be mega-litres of this wine and still produce such a classic and enjoyable number that still retains a bit of character and concentration.  Good on them, for their coat-tails are surely well-laden…

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