All too many wine reviews seem to read like a nurseryman’s catalogue, incorporating a seemingly endless list of adjectives. Maybe understandable if the wine deserves it but what about when confronted with a boring wine? Sometimes it is hard work writing a review, especially when there are some dreary wines out there; technically competent maybe, but in no way conveying any sense of style or place. Sometimes, wines just pass you by, leaving no trace. Perfectly drinkable yet also alas, perfectly dull.
But then you find a wine that captures your imagination, and along the page your pen rolls, as you hope to convey the character, the nature, the essence, of the wine. The best continue to evolve and unfold in the glass and you find yourself trying to describe a kaleidescope of tastes and textures.
2012 Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay
My second vintage of this wine in as many weeks, (I tasted the 2011 at the Family XII tasting – to feature in another post). Both were so good I felt renewed and invigorated, not just about wine but perhaps even life in general. Mealy, rich, creamy, concentrated, youthful and taut, restrained yet brimming with potential, and fruit too, this is chardonnay as it should be. Lithe texture, complex and lengthy, a wine of great harmony and character. And deliciousness. Never forget delicousness.
(yes, yes, not the most interesting photo – the Ata Rangi winery – but the best I had on file because *someone else* deleted the bottle shot)