|2021 Chenin Blanc||$26.00||★★★★★|
Fans of Central Otago producer Ceres need not worry the label has disappeared. Back in 2006 brothers James and Matt Dicey combined their respective viticulture and winemaking skills and released wine under their own Ceres label. Fast forward fifteen years and the pair have retired that name in favour of Dicey. The range remains the same, all sourced from the three Bannockburn Vineyards, and the smart new packaging reflects the colours of the region, the familial connection as well as perhaps their natural inclination to shake things up a little.
2021 Riesling, Bannockburn
A confident approach to the ‘low alcohol/touch of sweetness’ style of riesling that seems to work so well in Central Otago. White peach and nectarine, spring blossom and a hint of just-ripe apricot. A touch of sweetness is offset by rapier-like acidity which contributes to the mouth-watering texture. Crisp and delicious.
2021 Chenin Blanc, Bannockburn
According to winemaker Matt Dicey, 2021 was a more benign growing year which has contributed ‘more plushness and richness to the wine’. The 2020 Chenin Blanc was lovely but this 2021 is a step up in deliciousness, tastes a little sweeter and more opulent and is all the more delightful as a result. Aromas of meyer lemon, green apple and orange blossom lead to a poised, succulent palate where the ripe fruit is balanced by salivating, flinty acidity. It would cellar but why bother – it is super delicious now. (And amazingly keenly priced to boot).
2020 Chardonnay, Bannockburn
A rich style of chardonnay with melting butter, bran biscuit and a touch of salted caramel wafer sitting alongside the stone-fruit. Strong textural red grapefruit and peach notes. Well-made, though the acidity is perhaps a little disjointed, but not as exciting as the other whites in the line-up.
2020 Gamay, Bannockburn
Great gamay has texture and interest whilst letting the grape’s inherent energy run wild. This succeeds beautifully; white pepper, redcurrant and raspberry fruit with a little fresh crushed thyme. Crunchy, crisply fruited and with a vibrant appealing character. A joyful wine.