The idea of non-alcoholic ‘wine’ is largely a mystery to us here at IWM. Until recently, this category was nigh-on non-existent and the few wines that occupied the space were pretty dire. However the modern trend for wellfulness, coupled to health and dietary concerns seems to have created a newly burgeoning market, despite the inherent cynicism of the category. There are plenty of non-alcoholic drinks already in existence for anyone who wants them, so why bother manipulating actual alcoholic ones into this space? Perhaps to satisfy those who find sugary sodas or fruit juices unhealthy but desire something more than variations on plain water?
By its very definition wine must contain alcohol and so creating a non-alcoholic pastiche also contributes to the idea that one must be drinking to be having fun or fit in – a dangerous cultural concept, particularly in a country such as New Zealand which has a less-than-ideal national drinking culture. However, for many companies, wine production will go where the marketing department leads, hence the arrival of Giesen 0% Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on our doorsteps. Leaving aside the more philosophical objections to the category, where this actual example fails is at a more fundamental level: on taste. At the very least any drink, whether it contains alcohol or not, should be enjoyable. Despite the hopeful claim of the neck-tag, this does not ‘taste great’. Mostly, it tastes flavourless and rather sour. A bit fruity yes, and there are definitely shades of sauvignon blanc to be found, but overall, it’s tart and pretty underwhelming in the pleasure department. Perhaps that’s the taste of cynicism? Or maybe we are simply being unfair, judging it in the context of wine when it is clearly a different product altogether. However, the styling of the bottle and its marketing clearly implies this should be considered as an alternative to wine, and in either way, it still doesn’t taste very nice. Our suggestion: chill a glass of your favourite water, add a slice of fresh lemon, and enjoy. Cheaper, better for you, and not a waste of actual Marlborough sauvignon blanc.
