2017 Doctors Flat Pinot Noir

2017 Doctors Flat Pinot Noir

April 21, 2021 0 By emma

I always look forward to tasting (and drinking) the Doctors Flat Pinot Noir, eager to see the evolution of this organically-farmed 3ha Bannockburn vineyard, and what Steve Davies’ clever, faithful winemaking has coaxed from it. Davies makes tiny quantities of just the one wine (so tiny that when Steve once opened up the shipping container behind his house to reveal all 14 barrels, I felt almost embarrassed to be withdrawing any wine for tasting). Despite his decades of experience, Davies remains curious and questing in his winemaking; recent deep conversations with Comte de Vogüé’s François Millet (a regular visitor to Central via his collaboration with Bendigo producer Prophet’s Rock) have changed the way he approaches extraction, his light touch becoming ever lighter. HIs thoughtfulness and humility are always evident in his subtle, elegant wines.

The 2017 Doctors Flat Pinot Noir ($52) is very shy at first, all creamy berryfruit and soft oak but with time and a bit of air it settles into itself and blossoms. A lovely restrained style with a core of rich, slightly plush Bannockburn fruit at its heart: damson plum, dark cherry, a touch of mocha and spice, a thread of red fruits and dried herbs. The palate is silky and dense with a subtle but sinewy run of tannins that lengthen the finish, leaving it savoury and satisfying. Best decanted if drinking now, otherwise tuck it away for a few more years to really let it shine. (EJ)

(Photo taken by Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak)